EV's Best Top Rated FM and HD Radio Antenna Guide & Reviews - Page 7

EscapeVelocity · 07-23-2009, 08:45 PM

Here is some fantastic information posted on the fmtunerinfo.com website....

Quote:

Paul's Antenna Attic

Below is a listing of antenna specs as published by the manufacturers. Many antenna manufacturers have been known to stretch the truth in their claims, so please note that TIC does not vouch for the accuracy of any of this information. Thanks to our contributor Paul Baptista for compiling it. A word from Paul: "The purpose of this page is not to start a debate on the individual specs unless someone has the equipment to measure them on a purchased unit. My intent was to scan the market and provide what is out there in a catalog format. I left out the prices on purpose so folks can do that on their own." Worthwhile comments from contributors, as we receive them, will appear below the table. Scroll down for some commentary on indoor FM antennas.

This link to our contributor Brian Beezley's antenna page deserves to go above the table. Brian used a computer modeling program to calculate performance results for many FM antennas and compares them to the manufacturers' specs to separate the contenders from the pretenders!

Omni

Antennacraft/RS FMSS/15-216 = 8dB F/B 54" Long
Magnum Dynalab ST-2 = 54" Long
Fanfare FM-2G = 56" Long

2 Elements

Triax FM 2 (100161) = 2dB Gain 10dB F/B
Blake ? = 3dBd/5.2dBi 10dB F/B

3 Elements

Triax FM 3 (100162) = 6 dB Gain 16 dB F/B
Blake 35dBd/7.2dBi Gain 15 dB F/B
Antiference FM1083 = 5dBd/7.15dBi Gain 15 dB 860 mm Long
Matchmaster FM3 = 5dB Gain 15dB F/B
Televes 1027 = 6dB Gain 18dB F/B
Lincrad 502 = 7dB Gain 105cm 168cm Long

4 Elements

Winegard PR-6000 = 5dB 6db to 16dB F/B 33" Long
NilJon HD FM H4 = 9.9 to 10.2 db Gain
Triax FM 4 (100163) = 7dB Gain 18dB F/B
Blake 4? = 6 dBd/8.2dBi Gain 19dB F/B

5 Elements

Triax FM 5 (100164) = 8dB Gain 20dB F/B
Triax FM 5 Split beam (100184) = 8dB Gain 20dB F/B
Antiference FM 1085 = 6.9dBd/9dBi Gain 16dB F/B 20.5cm Long
Televes 1029 = 9dB Gain 22dB F/B
Lincrad 503 = 9dB Gain 257cm Long

6 Elements

Antennacraft/Radio Shack FM-6/15-2163 = 6dB Gain 23dB F/B 70" Long
Magnum Dynalab MD-6 = 8dB Gain 13dB F/B 94" Long
Maxview NB01 = 6.7dB Gain 18dB F/B
Blake 6? = 8dBd/10.2dBi Gain 19dB F/B
Lincrad 516 = 10dB Gain 308.5 cm Long

8 Elements

Triax FM 8S (100197) = 9.5dB Gain 24dB F/B
Blake 8? = 9dBd/11.2dBi Gain 23dB F/B
Matchmaster FMG8 = 10.9 dB Gain 20.5 dB F/B

9 Elements

APS-9B = 7.5 dBd Gain 28.8 dB F/B 100" Long
Delhi QFM-9

10 Elements

Magnum Dynalab MD-10 = 12 dB Gain 15 dB F/B 142" Long
Winegard HD-6065P = 9.4 to 10.6 dB Gain 18 to 20 dB F/B 127" Long

13 Elements

APS-13 = 10 dBd Gain 30 dB F/B 200" Long

Our contributor Hank comments, "Having used both the Winegard HD6065P and the APS-9, I found both to be very good antennas. I noticed no demonstrable improvement in the number of stations I could receive when I switched from the APS-9 to the HD6065P, in spite of the fact that the Winegard is significantly larger. In my opinion, most anyone would be very pleased with either antenna.That said, when I then progressed to the APS-13 (which is what I now use), every important spec seemed to get better. More gain, much improved directionality, *definitely* superior front-to-back ratio. In any situation in which an admittedly rather large antenna is feasible, I'd go with the APS-13."

EscapeVelocity · 07-23-2009, 09:23 PM

Here is more from fmtunerinfo.com

Quote:

Paul's Antenna Attic

Indoor Antennas

Our contributor Eli reports on the BIC Beam Box, Model FM10: "I have an FM10 that I just got from Glenn Davis (thanks Glenn!). There is a four-position direction switch on the front, so I assume there are strong nulls at 90 degrees to the selected direction, but I wonder about any backlobes to the chosen direction. My impression (not backed up by any rigorous testing) is that the Beam Box is not completely bipolar (like a dipole) but gives its strongest response in one direction. For those who are curious, there is a tuning knob on the front panel and a 4-gang variable capacitor inside the FM10. This cap needs the grounding contacts deoxidized just like the variable cap inside your analog tuner. I assume that the Wide-Narrow switch on the front panel engages either 2 gangs (for Wide) or all 4 (for Narrow). I didn't actually trace the circuit to determine if this is what the Wide/Narrow switch does - I just made that assumption based on a quick look at the innards. In my playing around, so far, the Narrow position always gives better results. I get a stronger signal using Narrow than using Wide, so any of the differences you would expect from a stronger signal will apply (less noise, etc.). Otherwise, I'm not aware of any sonic differences."

Our contributor John L. adds: "I did a quick, simple directionality test of a BIC Beam Box FM10, a Godar FM1A and a Radio Shack rabbit ears with the ears horizontal. The tuner used is a Denon TU-767 with a 7-segment signal strength indicator. The IF band switch was in the wide position. I connected the antennas to the tuner one by one using the same six foot long coax cable. I oriented each antenna to give the maximum signal strength, which was the same direction for each; rotated it 90 degrees and recorded the signal strength; and rotated it another 90 degrees and recorded the signal strength. The weather was overcast and rainy. The station tuned to is WBGO, 88.3, which broadcasts from Newark, NJ. I was in my fourth-floor Manhattan apartment, which does not have line of sight to Newark and is in a high RF, high multipath environment. The BIC FM10 lit 4 segments max, 3 segments with a lot of background hiss at 90 degrees, and 3 segments with less hiss at 180 degrees. The Godar lit 5 segments max, 4 segments at 90 degrees, and 4 segments at 180 degrees. The Radio Shack rabbit ears lit 6 segments (with the 7th flickering) max, 6 segments at 90 degrees, and 5 segments at 180 degrees.

My reception of WBGO often includes annoying background hiss. The FM10, despite delivering less signal strength, usually reduces background hiss compared to the other antennas. This wasn't the case in this instance as the only hiss noticed was as mentioned for the FM10. The Denon does not have high blend and does not automatically switch to mono at low signal strength. For some stations I get better reception with the FM10 in the wide band position and some are better in the narrow band position. My experience is that indoor antenna reception depends on each particular situation. The only way to determine how an antenna works in your situation is to buy 'em and try 'em."

Here's a follow-up test by John using a fourth antenna: "The additional antenna is a Radio Shack compact indoor, catalog number 15-1843, which is a 5" by 5" by 1/4" plastic-encased square with an integral six-foot coax cable and 75 Ohm connector. It is supposed to be directional when upright with the 5" by 5" face vertical and pointed towards the signal source, and omnidirectional when the 5" by 5" face is horizontal. It was tucked away in a drawer and I had forgotten about it. The weather was clear. No matter which position I put the RS compact in, facing the max signal strength direction of the other antennas, rotated 90 degrees from that direction, rotated 180 degrees from that direction or horizontal, it lit 5 segments on the Denon signal strength meter when tuned to WBGO.

Since the weather had changed, I checked reception with the other antennas. The Godar lit 4 segments (with the 5th segment flickering) max, 4 segments at 90 degrees from max and 4 segments at 180 degrees from max. The Radio Shack rabbit ears lit 7 segments max, 6 segments at 90 degrees and 6 segments at 180 degrees. The BIC FM10 lit 4 segments max, 3 segments at 90 degrees and 3 segments at 180 degrees. At the max position, there was noticable hiss for each antenna except for the FM10 in the wide band position, which had barely audible hiss. In the narrow band position, the FM10 had as much hiss as the the other antennas. Each antenna occupied the same position while being tested and was then removed and replaced with the next."

John compares the FM10 to its lesser sibling, the FM8: "The FM10 has both 300 Ohm and 75 Ohm outputs and generally goes for about $50 plus shipping on eBay. The FM8 has a 300 Ohm output, is otherwise functionally the same as the FM10, and generally sells on eBay for about half of what the FM10 does." Our panelist Eric used an FM8 decades before TIC existed and found it to be somewhat directional; however, it had so much less gain (really, more signal loss) than any generic rabbit ears, it rarely made sense to use the FM8 except for very strong signals with extreme multipath.

And here's Eli again: "I did a little more testing (though not as rigorous as what John described). Using my Yamaha TX-1000, which has an A-B antenna switch, I compared the FM10 to the wire dipole on a wooden "T". The cross-member of the "T" is about 2.5 feet above the level of the FM10, so it has a bit of an advantage. The dipole was connected to the antenna input using a very cheap slip-on 300-75 Ohm balun right at the tuner's input. The FM10 was connected using the 75 Ohm ouput from the antenna and a 1/2 meter coax cable. So, some differences may be due to non-ideal impedance matching or the difference in height. The TX-1000 has a 24-segment "Signal Quality" meter calibrated from 0-100 (the best tuning meter I've ever encountered).

The FM10 is somewhat directional. One of the four directional positions is always stronger than the others. When the four-position switch on the FM10 is set to the position giving the strongest signal, the wire dipole consistently reads twice as high as the FM10 on the TX-1000's meter (if the FM10 shows "20", the dipole shows "40"). Although I don't consider the question completely closed, at this point I would say the FM10 is a good choice only for those in high-signal-strength, high-multipath environments. And then, only recommended when rabbit ears can't be used for some reason."

Here are the FM8's specs (thanks John):

The Beam Box FM8 electronically directable FM antenna

Frequency range: 88 MHz to 108 MHz.
Antenna Gain: - 7 dB typ. (narrowband), - 14 dB typ. (broadband).
Directivity: Four selectable electronically oriented "figure-8" patterns.
Receiving Elements: Four 8th-wavelength aluminium elements.
Circuitry: Two orthogonal, capacitively loaded, foreshortened dipoles with tuned connecting circuit.
Broadband mode: directly coupled with antenna arms.
Narrowband mode: decoupled by impedance matching capacitors through 4- gang variable capacitor.
Controls: Electronic orientation (4-position), bandwith (broad/narrow), tuning (continiously variable, 88 MHz to 108 MHz)
Output impedance: 300 ohm balanced - for 75 Ohm operation external balun transformer with coaxial connector and cable required.
Standing Wave Ratio (VSWR): Less than 1.7 to 1 (narrowband)
Bandwith: in Narrow-Bandwith position 3 MHz typ. @ - 3 dB points.

Mechanical specifications:
Dimensions: 12-7/8" wide, 14" deep, 3-1/2" high.
Net Weight: 7 lbs (3.2 kg)

Piggie · 07-23-2009, 09:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EscapeVelocity

Got ya. Thanks for the lesson in 1/4 wave monopole vs 1/2 monopole antennas!

Then freakin hit the Thanks or Repuation button. Buttons talk and chatter walks, LOL....

Sorry I had to be obnoxious.... You know we both have reputations to maintain!

O-O · 07-23-2009, 09:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Piggie

Then freakin hit the Thanks or Repuation button. Buttons talk and chatter walks, LOL....

Sorry I had to be obnoxious.... You know we both have reputations to maintain!

it's good to see you eggheads have some humor every once in a while in here.

EscapeVelocity · 07-23-2009, 09:29 PM

Done! But quit hoggin' up all the Thanks.

Piggie · 07-23-2009, 10:59 PM

While this is a narrow band yagi, it actually should work across most of the band since it uses a folded dipole for a driven element.

You need twin lead, wire, wood and glue. Paint it makes it weather proof.

3 Element Yagi

don't miss the dimension page where you can add up to 6 elements.
Dimension_Table

Build your own FM6.....

=======

You can use this for High Band Yagi's also. Know that High Band is the second harmonic of the FM band (yes they did that on purpose and not to force us to use FM traps but to keep harmonics off more "critical" frequencies. You will find that true of the ham bands are harmonics of each other.)

Knowing it's the 2nd harmonic, find the TV channels center frequency here.
TV channel frequencies

Then divide the center frequency of the TV channel by 2.

Then look up that frequency on the FM table. Use their dimensions but divide them by 2 also and you have a Single channel 6 element TV high band antenna!

EscapeVelocity · 07-23-2009, 11:05 PM

Im looking into the UK market to add to the guide. There offerings seem a little more varied....like I guess they once were in the US.

Here is a sampling...

Triax FM 3

Quote:

3-element directional
- Unique Trumatch dipole
- Easy assembly
- Fold down into compact pack

This three element aerial has been specifically designed to work in the FM stereo band 88-108MHz. Ruggedly constructed with the unique Trumatch dipole with parallel resonance properties to give a virtually flat response across the whole FM band.

Forward Gain: 7.2dBi
Front To Back Ratio: 15dBi
Acceptance Angle deg +/-: 32 Degrees
Windage: 67N
Length: 860mm

Antifeference Omni FM Aerial

Quote:

- The 'Allrounder' omnidirectional
- Easy assembly
- Fold down into compact pack

Forward Gain: 0dBi
Front To Back Ratio: 0dB
Acceptance Angle deg +/-: 180 Degrees
Windage: 14N
Length: 510mm

TRIAX FM 5

Quote:

TRIAX band II aerials are wide band aerials covering the entire frequency range from 87 to 108 MHz. Band II aerials are provided with a light-alloy metal boom made of 18 x 18mm square tubes. The dipole and the elements are made of Ø12 mm tube provided with strings to damp vibrations and to prevent element resonance.

The FM 5 is provided with brackets for aerial masts up to Ø60 mm.

Gain: 8.0dB
Band: 87-108MHz
Front/Back: >20dB
Return Loss: >15dB
Windload (N): 80
Beamwidth: +/- 27 degrees
Balun: 75ohm

EscapeVelocity · 07-23-2009, 11:07 PM

Thanks Piggie. My antenna building skills are increasing exponentially. I think Im going to try one of those 1/4 wave a side squre loops, I posted on the previous page. Maybe with some copper tubing of quarter to half inch in diameter.

Piggie · 07-24-2009, 02:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EscapeVelocity

Thanks Piggie. My antenna building skills are increasing exponentially. I think Im going to try one of those 1/4 wave a side squre loops, I posted on the previous page. Maybe with some copper tubing of quarter to half inch in diameter.

Quad loops are great antennas and are slightly lower noise floor than a dipole, plus about 2 db (dog biscuits) more gain than a dipole.

Actually the quad should be feed with a 1:1 balun. These are next to impossible to find for 100 MHz. I can probably do a search and find one you could build. However you can build a choke easy enough. Wrap about 6 to 8 turns of coax right at the feed point and just use electrical tape to hold the loop. This will stop most current on shield of the coax and make a better pattern.