Anyone familiar with TV repair?

My Magnavox 27" Stereo CRT TV, Chassis #27G1-01, suddenly went poof last night. it at first acted like what happens during a low-voltage brownout (picture going kinda pincushiony and shrinking then expanding) and then before i cound utter 'WTF?!' out it went, the relay and power then goes off/on, can hear high voltage kick in each time and sort of a picture then out/in/out/in then i just unplugged it. took it apart, no fuse blown, nothing looks burnt and nothing is fried, so what happened?!

It was NOT a brownout since the A/C didn't kick off/on too like what happens during one. but now i'm left with a TV that only powers up for 1 second then shuts off then goes off/on/off/on until i either turn it off by the remote or unplug it. obviously the high voltage is ok since i hear it kick on and i momentarily hear the speakers kick in then out it goes. whatever is killing the set is taking all power with it and making the power LED flash too.

I'm not in the market for a new TV so is this a real problem or could it be simple like bad solder joints or a bad relay? if there is a shutdown circuit how do i circumvent it? (don't worry, this wouldn't be the first time i disabled a protection circuit a lot of times it brings the TV back to life without problems so it's kinda stupid system)


My current Sony Trinitron TV is sort of like that. I sometimes have to bang it like Onslow does in "Keeping Up Appearances" to get the contrast working. Sometimes I have to hit pretty hard to crack the plastic. It also has a very worn RF connector. I need a new TV!

I'll only accept CRT televisions, plasma sacrifices some detail speed for its compact size, lower weight and energy use reduction. I'm a very rough stickler for detail. I MUST see what's happening in the background of the scene clearly, especially in the distance. Just like my requirements for video game 3D engines.


I mentioned this in Bicker's receiver problem, thought I'd give you my $.02 too (not that you have a choice DTVuser2009 :))

If you do the work yourself, you'll save a lot of money. If you're thinking about having a repair technician come out and crack it open, it's probably a guaranteed $100-$150 just to have them diagnose. I had a Pioneer Rear Projection TV go out on me one time, and it was $150 for them to open it, and $250 to replace a burned up tuner. This wasn't too bad considering I paid $2,000 for the TV 5 years before this problem. Might not be worth it on a 27".
I always work on stuff myself. my car, electronics, computers, etc anything. i NEVER pay a ripoff artist or mechanic. if i can't fix it i trash it or try to sell to someone who can fix it. i'm pretty proficient on fixing stuff, i just don't like working around the 40KV inside a TV Set. i tried banging it RCA-style which would fix a picture issue but i cannot even get a picture. it 'shuts down' where you'd normally have the picture come up. it goes through the power up, high voltage kicks in, speakers kick in, (the power, not sound from a station) degauss relay clicks, then immediate shutdown/restart cycling. i just decided to give up since it's not something i feel i can fix (a blown fuse, obvious burnt component, 'stuck' relay) so i just went out and bought a Console TV (25" Curtis Mathes, one of the ORIGINAL CM sets too, from Dec 1986) for $5.00 at a thrift store that i tested before purchase. i figure if it works now and it's over 20-years old even if it keels over a week later i got my money's worth. i will NEVER buy a new HDTV set until they can get REAL speakers in them with the proper bass levels, and a picture that has proper black level. i could care less if it's non-HD or HD since i cannot perceive the difference. then you count how high they are. i can always buy a great 25" TV for cheap with a CRT for like the above price if not free, that works well and for some reason they had really nice speakers in them back then. sad how today's quality has so dropped.

I've always LOVED consoles. the underappreciated sets lived long lives, had REALLY NICE stereo sound, and the biggest plus, they had a perfect cabinet to accomodate a VCR/DVD and of course, the Digital Converter Box. they made their own entertainment center. Consoles FTW! ;)
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the underappreciated sets lived long lives, had REALLY NICE stereo sound, and the biggest plus, they had a perfect cabinet to accomodate a VCR/DVD and of course, the Digital Converter Box. they made their own entertainment center. Consoles FTW! ;)
Plasma and LCD TVs are improving every year. Samsung and Pioneer now list their Plasmas at 60,000 hours of operation before half briteness compared to old CRTs at 25,000 hours.


Give me a woodie cabinet TV over anything. I always scan Craigslist for any one that I can change the electronics. Very hard to grab one now. I might have to build one from scratch, and change the faceplates for fabric panels.
If I got fancy with a dremel I would take the stereo multiplex and cut a spot for a tv there and use the huge speakers in it for the tv and stereo and have a three way multiplex.

Too much "planned obselecence" today as Boo-Ray has proved with the average lifespan BS.
I cracked it open before i posted this thread. i found nothing wrong. no burnt out components and it seems what was going on was the TV's protection circuits were shutting the set down even though the only thing that happened before was a sort of power fluctuation. that's why i replaced it with old-enough sets built long before protection circuitry (i hate it, a lot of times the TV would still work fine if it hadn't sacrificed itself) and when the manufacturers were ALL-AMERICAN; in 1986 Curtis-Mathes was still American-made. plus this was the perfect excuse for a console which i wanted in the first place. goes perfect with the woodsy interior of my home with the deer theme. i even picked up a smaller RCA XL-100 Color TV with the wood-grain accents. it was made in the 1970s or earlier since it still has the 'Dog with gramaphone' emblazoned on it. i put that one in the bedroom.

The only 'issue' with the Curtis-Mathes set is that it has vacuum tubes inside it even in the 1980s. it has one noisy bugger in there which makes a little noise until the set fully warms up. but other than that it's a fine set.

Two questions: 1)what's the 'Vacation Switch?' and 2) what's this 'ACMC II' that's lit on the front of the set? is it some sort of computer color control? because if it is i don't see the 'eye' for it.
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